The Science of Soil: Understanding the Three Parts
To get the best results for your landscaping project, you first need to understand what’s under the surface. All soil is a mixture of three primary minerals: Sand, Silt, and Clay. The specific ratio of these three determines how your plants grow, how water drains, and the overall health of your yard.
The Building Blocks of Soil
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Sand: The largest particles. Sand allows for high oxygen levels and excellent drainage but holds very little water or nutrients.
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Silt: Medium-sized particles. Silt acts as the "glue" that holds moisture while still allowing for air circulation.
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Clay: The smallest particles. Clay is nutrient-rich but packs tightly, which can lead to drainage issues if not balanced.
Why "Sandy Loam" is the Gold Standard
Different combinations of these minerals create different soil classifications. Sandy Loam is the most popular and effective base for professional soil manufacturing.
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Composition: A precise blend containing between 50% and 70% naturally occurring sand.
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Performance: The high sand content ensures water drains freely away from roots to prevent rot, while the silt and clay retain enough moisture to keep plants hydrated.
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The Puyallup/Midland Standard: In the Pacific Northwest, Sandy Loam is the ideal balance. It allows our heavy winter rains to infiltrate the ground without puddling, while sustaining growth during our increasingly dry summer months.
Our Premium Soil Blends
We offer two primary blends designed specifically for the unique climate of the Puget Sound area. Satisfaction Guaranteed.
1. Topsoil with Added Compost
Our standard topsoil is a sandy loam-based product with added compost for nutrient amendment and better structure. It's screened thru a 1/2" screen. It is a fantastic choice for:
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Flower beds
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Establishing new lawns
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General landscaping filler Order Topsoil with added compost
2. The "Rain Mix" (60/40 Blend)
For specific drainage challenges, we offer a specialty 60/40 Rain Mix (60% coarse washed C-33 sand and 40% composted yard/garden waste).
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Workability: It spreads like "warm butter on hot toast."
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Extreme Drainage: Handles up to 9" of rain per hour—far more than the record rainfall seen in Tacoma in 2025!
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Rain Gardens: Perfect for downspouts and rain gardens, filtering pollutants while allowing water to infiltrate safely. Order 60/40
Step-by-Step Guide to a Perfect Lawn
If you are putting in a new lawn, follow these steps for professional results:
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Grade & Smooth: Dump topsoil in voids and smooth it out using the back of a grade rake to reach your desired grade.
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Roll it Out: Use a roller back and forth in three different directions to make the surface smooth and even.
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Scarify the Surface: Use the tine side of the grade rake to lightly "scratch" the surface. This creates the necessary surface area for the seed to take hold.
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Seed & Fertilize: Broadcast your seed. (Pro Tip: You have enough seed when you can't fit a dime between the individual seeds). Follow up with a starter fertilizer.

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The Final Touch (Peat Moss): Apply a 1/4" to 1/2" layer of peat moss. It is the best protective, biodegradable cover available to keep seeds moist.
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Mist & Grow: Set your hose to Mist and water until the peat changes from light brown to dark brown. Avoid dragging the hose through the peat! In three weeks, you’ll have a lush new lawn.

The Ultimate Guide to Soil Temp: When Is It Warm Enough to Start My Landscaping Project?
One of the most common questions we get is: "What does the temperature need to be to start growing grass or starting my vegetable garden?" Whether you’re working on cutting beds, planters, or a brand-new lawn, timing is everything.
The Magic Number: 51°
For projects involving grass seed, the "magic number" is 51°F.
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The Overnight Rule: Your grass will start to germinate once the lowest overnight temperature stays at or above 51°F.
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Keep in Mind: This is the starting line, not the finish line. At this temperature, the seed is just beginning to wake up; it won't be flourishing or "vigorous" yet, but the process has officially begun.
Soil Prep vs. Growing
It’s important to distinguish between moving dirt and growing life:
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Structural Projects: If you are just throwing down topsoil to level a yard or putting mulch/sod on top, the temperature isn't a huge deal. You can get a head start on the heavy lifting whenever the ground isn't frozen.
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Seeding Projects: If you are growing from seed, you are at the mercy of the thermometer. Warmth is a fundamental requirement—just like sunlight, food, and water. Without that overnight warmth, the seed will simply sit dormant.
Maximizing the Growing Season
Since warmth and sunlight are the engines that drive plant growth, professional planters often use a few tricks to "cheat" the clock:
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Southern Exposure: Always aim to position vegetable gardens and cutting beds with a Southern Exposure.
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The Greenhouse Effect: Using greenhouses or southern-facing walls helps you capture the maximum amount of available sunlight and heat during the day, which helps keep that soil temperature up during the chilly spring nights.
Does the type of topsoil I use affect the temperature of my garden?
A: Indirectly, yes. Darker, organic-rich topsoils (like our compost mixes) tend to absorb more heat from the sun than lighter, sandy soils. This can help "insulate" your seeds and keep the root zone just a little bit warmer during those early spring fluctuations.
How can I get a head start on my vegetable garden?
A: Focus on Southern Exposure. By placing your beds or planters on the south side of a building or fence, you capture the maximum amount of solar heat. For an even earlier start, consider using raised beds, as the soil in a raised planter warms up much faster than the ground does.
When is it "safe" to stop worrying about the frost?
A: While 51° is the start for grass, most delicate vegetables and flowers want to wait until the danger of a "killing frost" has passed. Always check your local zone's last frost date before moving your starts from the greenhouse to the garden.
Planning Your Project
Q: How much topsoil do I need for my raised bed?
A: Using a cubic yard soil calculator is the best way to get an accurate estimate for your project. As a general rule, a standard 4'x8' raised bed requires about 1 to 1.5 cubic yards of soil depending on depth.
Keep in mind that if your plants have a larger-than-average root ball, you may require slightly less bulk soil to fill the space. After planting, we recommend top-dressing your garden with one to two inches of premium compost or mulch. This helps the soil retain moisture during our dry spells and provides a slow release of nutrients for your plants.
How Much Do You Need?
Use our built-in calculator to enter your Length, Width, and Depth to get a total in cubic yards.
Pro Tip: When installing a new lawn, using a roller will compact the soil. We recommend accounting for a 10–15% "compaction buffer" in your order to ensure you reach your final grade.
Delivery & Pickup Notes
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Truck Capacity: An average pickup truck can typically carry 1/2 yard of material.
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Finishing Touches: While topsoil is the foundation, we also carry a full selection of Round Rock, Cobble, and Gravel to finish your landscaping project.
You might be thinking about some bark in the beds next to your new green grass, to finnish off your project. Here is a link to our bark selection.
[Click Here to View Our Rock & Gravel Selection]
All topsoil needs to be feterlized. <<<fine print

